Beyond Marfa: Ft. Davis

If you've been captivated by the quirky charm of Marfa, Texas, chances are you're eager to explore the surrounding areas that are just as delightful and brimming with character. Join me on a journey to discover the treasures outside of Marfa, as we venture to other small towns that transport you back in time to a wilder west and out to visit Chateau Wright, a surprising little winery with Texas hospitality.

After exploring Marfa for a day, we headed north on 17 for a lovely drive through the rolling golden hills and stunning vistas. Our first stop is Ft. Davis, a historical gem nestled amidst the picturesque Davis Mountains.

Before anything, we needed some coffee which led us to Double Shot Coffee Lounge. This charming little spot serves up some of the best artisanal coffee in the area. It’s part of Hotel Limpia, a charming Victorian-style hotel on the main thoroughfare in Ft. Davis. After seeing the menu, we decided Double Shot was a good place for breakfast as well. Breakfast is hearty: biscuits and gravy, lumberjack plates, etc. so it’s a great place to fill up if you’re going to be driving around and exploring for most of the day!

Hotel Limpia

Fort Davis National Historic Site

The Fort Davis National Historic Site is a well-preserved military post that dates back to the 19th century. Wander through the grounds surrounded by the bluffs of the Davis Mountains and restored buildings as you step back in time to the days of the Pony Express and tuberculosis outbreaks! The site offers guided tours, providing insights into the lives of soldiers and civilians who once called this place home.

Next, head north on 118 and spend some time biking or hiking in Davis Mountains State Park or drive straight to the McDonald Observatory, an astronomical observatory open to the public Tuesday-Saturday. Time your visit right, and you can catch a solar viewing or star party!

Along the way, are plenty of photo ops including the famous Prude Ranch, a working cattle ranch along 118 that offers a range of outdoor activities, including horseback riding, hiking trails, and stargazing opportunities. It’s also just a stunning drive!

Chateau Wright

Turning back towards Marfa, head south on 17 but hang a quick right on 166 to visit Chateau Wright, a surprising little winery and vineyard nestled in the gorgeous foothills of the Davis Mountains. Be sure to partake in the tasting, featuring six of their offerings. The staff was wonderful and knowledgeable. They also have a delightful little food truck offering sandwiches, salads and charcuterie boards.

Head back to Marfa and get some sleep, because next up is Terlingua and Big Bend!

Marfa - That Little Texas Gem

Today, I'm excited to take you on a virtual tour of one of the coolest and quirkiest spots in the Lone Star State: Marfa, Texas! This offbeat town, located in the vast West Texas desert, has gained quite the reputation for its unique blend of art, culture, and small-town charm. So, buckle up and let's drive out into the tumbleweed dotted highways of West Texas!

I traveled there in January with my good friend, and fellow small town Texas lover, Alison! She was the perfect companion for this quirky, mind-bending, pink cactus filled, roadtripping adventure.

El Cosmico

For those seeking a more adventurous lodging experience, El Cosmico is the place to be! This funky glamping site, located just south of Marfa proper, boasts an eclectic mix of accommodations, from retro trailers to yurts and teepees. From the moment you step into the main lobby, you’ll want to make this spot your home base for traveling around West Texas!

Outside, you'll find yourself surrounded by the vast expanse of the Texan desert. Starry nights, campfires, and a sense of community among fellow travelers make it an unforgettable stay.

No. 12, home for the weekend

We booked the extra large trailer which had an incredibly comfortable king bed with an additional twin bed in another room, indoor bathroom and shower, AC/heater, and cedar deck with table and chairs. I’m not a great sleeper, so when I learned I had to share a bed with my friend in a trailer, I was skeptical. But let me tell you - this trailer was roomy, kitschy and so so comfortable!

We visited in January when the days were cool and the nights were pretty frigid. If you do happen to visit in the cooler months, I highly, highly recommend renting a hot tub for the evening. After wandering around the desert it felt so nice to come home and unwind in our very own Swedish wood-burning hot tub that staff heats up for you. Once you arrive, you can add wood to the fire to keep it piping hot and enjoy the view of the incredible starry sky!

Hot tubbing at El Cosmico

Marfa in a Day

We decided to spend our first day exploring Marfa itself. We had looked up some vintage places we wanted to hit and a nice place for brunch. You can see everything in Marfa in a day. It’s a tiny town, and during its off season (anytime there isn’t a festival going on) a lot of places are closed or keep shorter hours, so a little planning or a go-with-the-flow attitude is necessary!

We started at neighborhood spot, The Sentinel for coffee and a light breakfast. We also picked up The Big Bend Sentinel to see the local happenings and do the crossword over breakfast. The coffee drinks were amazing!

Next, we parked downtown to wander around town. You have to stop in to see The Hotel Paisano. The vintage Southwest architecture and old-world vibes make it a delightful place to hang out for a bit. The beautiful courtyard is a great spot for pictures and resting with a margarita!

Across the street is one of my favorite shops in Marfa, Pronghorn Marfa. It’s an art gallery, vintage, and design store in one. It has some of the coolest jewelry from local artists and tons of cool fashion and art!

Across the street is Esperanza Vintage where I found the most amazing coat I have ever seen. Alas, it was a bit out of my price range, but I still found plenty that didn’t break the bank here!

One of our favorite vintage stores was Raba Marfa! Here’s Alison with her absolute score! Like most stores in Marfa, Raba is more than just vintage. There are locally made candles, home goods and art. And an adorable pup to pet!

Don’t miss Wrong Marfa, an amazing collection of art and home goods. I picked up a 2023 Moon Calendar by Lindsey Verrill that I have been wanting since last time I came!

Next stop was Moonlight Gemstones, an awesome collection of rocks, gems, minerals, fossils and jewelry. They will size and buff rings on the spot and have some really rad, knowledgeable staff.

Spend a couple of hours just wandering around Marfa. You never know what you’re going to find! Marfa is such a photogenic little town!

We wrapped up the afternoon at Planet Marfa, an outdoor bar and casual cafe that plays awesome music and serves up some amazing margaritas. Come here in the late afternoon to see the local cowboys saunter up to the bar and sip on the best spicy margarita in town.

Cochineal

Cochineal is fine dining in Marfa.When they say West Texas is a desert, it’s not just the environment. West Texas is a bit of a food desert. But Cochineal elevates the local ingredients (like wild nilgai that roam the West Texas plains between Marfa and Ft Davis) and the amazing ingredients it sources from outside the area.

See the Mystery Lights

When it’s a clear night (which is almost always) head east on HWY 90 out to the Marfa Lights Viewing Area. We read up on the lights before we headed out and waited until sunset to drive out. You will most likely be joined by other lovers of the unknown! Bring some binoculars if you have them and focus slightly to the right when looking out from the platform. It took us a while to realize we were actually looking right at them. They do seem like headlights from a far away highway but the more you look the more you realize the total randomness of the spots. I can’t tell you what they are but it’s the second time in my life I’ve seen them and it’s still a fun little outing.

You have to appreciate the little towns that dot Texas to really find the charm in Marfa. But if you can slow down and enjoy the snail’s pace of this place, I promise you are going to love the spirit of Marfa!

Charming Napa Valley

Darioush Winery

The last time I visited Napa Valley I was 16. As you can probably imagine, while I could appreciate the rolling golden hills and the feeling of being whisked away to the Italian countryside, my appreciation for fine dining and wine tasting hadn’t yet been honed. I have been wanting to go back for years, and finally this year, to escape the heat of Texas, I made it out there to see some friends from London and explore California’s Northern coast.

Nestled in the heart of California's wine country, Napa Valley stands as a captivating haven for wine enthusiasts and food connoisseurs alike. With its picturesque landscapes, luxurious vineyards, and an array of world-class culinary experiences, Napa Valley is a food and wine lovers dream. We only had 2 days to experience as much as we could and though I’m sure there’s so much more to see, it felt like enough time!

For dinner, I made us at least 6 reservations which we narrowed down to 2, Bouchon and Sake 107.

We have friends who have spent a lot of time in Napa and a couple of our trusted buddies insisted – if you’re going to visit one winery, make it Darioush.

Enter into Bouchon

Indulgent and charming, Bouchon Restaurant in Yountville, Napa Valley, still reigns supreme. Helmed by renowned chef Thomas Keller, this Michelin-starred restaurant presents a classic French menu that is simple and elegant and, unsurprisingly, executed perfectly.

Here’s what we got (and loved):

Right after we took our seats, our waitress dropped off a fresh baked pain d’epi (wheat shaped baguette). We devoured it with the house-made butter that came with it.

We started with their absolutely amazing deviled eggs. They were velvety, brine-y and bursting with flavor that set the tone for an exceptional meal. They came with 4 to an order (someone nabbed one before the picture) and we all loved them!

We then shared the escargot. Let me just tell you how much I appreciate a perfect plate of snails! These had the perfect balance of butter, parsley and garlic - and each was topped with a tiny puff pastry.

2 of us ordered the saffron mussels and the other 2 couldn’t resist the steak frites. The mussels were prepared in a saffron and white wine broth and both dishes were served with an abundance of fries!

DAY 2

If you plan to do a wine tasting while in Napa, be prepared to spend $100 per person per tasting and MAKE RESERVATIONS! We waited a bit too long and ended up at Darioush at 10:30 am. But, it worked! By the time we got to the wine-tasting bit after the tour it was lunch time and this tasting came with delicious food!

Among the plethora of wineries dotting Napa Valley, Darioush Winery stands out as an epitome of refinement and artistry. Established by Darioush Khaledi, an Iranian grocery entrepreneur with a passion for wine, this winery encapsulates the essence of old-world Persia with a modern Californian touch. The estate itself is gorgeous with Darioush’s Iranian heritage seeping into everything from the entryway to the grand fireplace and the gorgeous labels on its signature wines (images from London’s V&A collection of Persian textiles and artifacts).

The tour started in the vineyards where our tour guide, Gregory, served a 2019 Signature Viognier paired with a parmesan and talleggio brioche grilled cheese with apricot jam. This might be one of the only white wines I’ve ever really enjoyed. It paired beautifully with the amuse bouche and was refreshing yet nice and dry.

Then we moved into the barrel room where Gregory relayed a brief history of the man behind the wine, the building and the techniques used in Darioush winemaking.

Then we moved into Darioush’s private wine cellar where a sprawling table had been prepared with 4 wines to taste with an assortment of cheeses, pairings and crackers.

We moved counter clockwise across the beautifully prepared plate. First up the 2021 Darioush Signature Chardonnay paired with Delice de Bourgogne and California pomegranate honey. Next was the 2019 Darioush Signature Merlot paired with a petit Basque with pistachio butter and crushed pistachio. Then we had the 2019 Signature Cab Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with Mimolette, peach puree and micro basil. Gregory invited us to mix and match and we had a ball coming up with the perfect pairings.

It really was a special experience that I highly recommend!

After exploring the valley a bit more we regrouped at the Airbnb and ventured out to Petaluma for dinner.

A new sushi restaurant, Sake 107, has recently opened and it was highly recommended. Executive chef Eiji Ando prepares gorgeous nigiri and sushi.

We decided to try their omakase and left it to the chef to serve his favorites! It featured tuna tartare in shrimp crisps, tuna tatake, nigiri, salmon collar and wagyu nigiri. We ended the meal with a fresh strawberry ice cream sandwich.

The next day we headed up the coast to the redwoods! Stay tuned!