Beyond Marfa: Ft. Davis

If you've been captivated by the quirky charm of Marfa, Texas, chances are you're eager to explore the surrounding areas that are just as delightful and brimming with character. Join me on a journey to discover the treasures outside of Marfa, as we venture to other small towns that transport you back in time to a wilder west and out to visit Chateau Wright, a surprising little winery with Texas hospitality.

After exploring Marfa for a day, we headed north on 17 for a lovely drive through the rolling golden hills and stunning vistas. Our first stop is Ft. Davis, a historical gem nestled amidst the picturesque Davis Mountains.

Before anything, we needed some coffee which led us to Double Shot Coffee Lounge. This charming little spot serves up some of the best artisanal coffee in the area. It’s part of Hotel Limpia, a charming Victorian-style hotel on the main thoroughfare in Ft. Davis. After seeing the menu, we decided Double Shot was a good place for breakfast as well. Breakfast is hearty: biscuits and gravy, lumberjack plates, etc. so it’s a great place to fill up if you’re going to be driving around and exploring for most of the day!

Hotel Limpia

Fort Davis National Historic Site

The Fort Davis National Historic Site is a well-preserved military post that dates back to the 19th century. Wander through the grounds surrounded by the bluffs of the Davis Mountains and restored buildings as you step back in time to the days of the Pony Express and tuberculosis outbreaks! The site offers guided tours, providing insights into the lives of soldiers and civilians who once called this place home.

Next, head north on 118 and spend some time biking or hiking in Davis Mountains State Park or drive straight to the McDonald Observatory, an astronomical observatory open to the public Tuesday-Saturday. Time your visit right, and you can catch a solar viewing or star party!

Along the way, are plenty of photo ops including the famous Prude Ranch, a working cattle ranch along 118 that offers a range of outdoor activities, including horseback riding, hiking trails, and stargazing opportunities. It’s also just a stunning drive!

Chateau Wright

Turning back towards Marfa, head south on 17 but hang a quick right on 166 to visit Chateau Wright, a surprising little winery and vineyard nestled in the gorgeous foothills of the Davis Mountains. Be sure to partake in the tasting, featuring six of their offerings. The staff was wonderful and knowledgeable. They also have a delightful little food truck offering sandwiches, salads and charcuterie boards.

Head back to Marfa and get some sleep, because next up is Terlingua and Big Bend!

Charming Napa Valley

Darioush Winery

The last time I visited Napa Valley I was 16. As you can probably imagine, while I could appreciate the rolling golden hills and the feeling of being whisked away to the Italian countryside, my appreciation for fine dining and wine tasting hadn’t yet been honed. I have been wanting to go back for years, and finally this year, to escape the heat of Texas, I made it out there to see some friends from London and explore California’s Northern coast.

Nestled in the heart of California's wine country, Napa Valley stands as a captivating haven for wine enthusiasts and food connoisseurs alike. With its picturesque landscapes, luxurious vineyards, and an array of world-class culinary experiences, Napa Valley is a food and wine lovers dream. We only had 2 days to experience as much as we could and though I’m sure there’s so much more to see, it felt like enough time!

For dinner, I made us at least 6 reservations which we narrowed down to 2, Bouchon and Sake 107.

We have friends who have spent a lot of time in Napa and a couple of our trusted buddies insisted – if you’re going to visit one winery, make it Darioush.

Enter into Bouchon

Indulgent and charming, Bouchon Restaurant in Yountville, Napa Valley, still reigns supreme. Helmed by renowned chef Thomas Keller, this Michelin-starred restaurant presents a classic French menu that is simple and elegant and, unsurprisingly, executed perfectly.

Here’s what we got (and loved):

Right after we took our seats, our waitress dropped off a fresh baked pain d’epi (wheat shaped baguette). We devoured it with the house-made butter that came with it.

We started with their absolutely amazing deviled eggs. They were velvety, brine-y and bursting with flavor that set the tone for an exceptional meal. They came with 4 to an order (someone nabbed one before the picture) and we all loved them!

We then shared the escargot. Let me just tell you how much I appreciate a perfect plate of snails! These had the perfect balance of butter, parsley and garlic - and each was topped with a tiny puff pastry.

2 of us ordered the saffron mussels and the other 2 couldn’t resist the steak frites. The mussels were prepared in a saffron and white wine broth and both dishes were served with an abundance of fries!

DAY 2

If you plan to do a wine tasting while in Napa, be prepared to spend $100 per person per tasting and MAKE RESERVATIONS! We waited a bit too long and ended up at Darioush at 10:30 am. But, it worked! By the time we got to the wine-tasting bit after the tour it was lunch time and this tasting came with delicious food!

Among the plethora of wineries dotting Napa Valley, Darioush Winery stands out as an epitome of refinement and artistry. Established by Darioush Khaledi, an Iranian grocery entrepreneur with a passion for wine, this winery encapsulates the essence of old-world Persia with a modern Californian touch. The estate itself is gorgeous with Darioush’s Iranian heritage seeping into everything from the entryway to the grand fireplace and the gorgeous labels on its signature wines (images from London’s V&A collection of Persian textiles and artifacts).

The tour started in the vineyards where our tour guide, Gregory, served a 2019 Signature Viognier paired with a parmesan and talleggio brioche grilled cheese with apricot jam. This might be one of the only white wines I’ve ever really enjoyed. It paired beautifully with the amuse bouche and was refreshing yet nice and dry.

Then we moved into the barrel room where Gregory relayed a brief history of the man behind the wine, the building and the techniques used in Darioush winemaking.

Then we moved into Darioush’s private wine cellar where a sprawling table had been prepared with 4 wines to taste with an assortment of cheeses, pairings and crackers.

We moved counter clockwise across the beautifully prepared plate. First up the 2021 Darioush Signature Chardonnay paired with Delice de Bourgogne and California pomegranate honey. Next was the 2019 Darioush Signature Merlot paired with a petit Basque with pistachio butter and crushed pistachio. Then we had the 2019 Signature Cab Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with Mimolette, peach puree and micro basil. Gregory invited us to mix and match and we had a ball coming up with the perfect pairings.

It really was a special experience that I highly recommend!

After exploring the valley a bit more we regrouped at the Airbnb and ventured out to Petaluma for dinner.

A new sushi restaurant, Sake 107, has recently opened and it was highly recommended. Executive chef Eiji Ando prepares gorgeous nigiri and sushi.

We decided to try their omakase and left it to the chef to serve his favorites! It featured tuna tartare in shrimp crisps, tuna tatake, nigiri, salmon collar and wagyu nigiri. We ended the meal with a fresh strawberry ice cream sandwich.

The next day we headed up the coast to the redwoods! Stay tuned!